![]() ![]() The loss of Reboxx and the impending closure of NWSL are tremendous hits to the hobby. In tis regard, I really have few -but not completely absent- contact problems. ![]() My track is pretty clean, fomented by electronically-filtered climate control, and a reasonable program of cleaning rails. At the most with steam brass drivers, i will turn down the flanges. I do replace most unplated brass diesel driving wheels, not for electrical contact reasons but for reasons of deep, sharp, or pizza cutter flanges, or flat/wide treads. I also pretty consistently add current pickup wipers to wheels on both sides of all locomotives that do not already have it, almost a necessity to ensure reliable smooth operation with DCC IMHO. Even though secondary, superior appearance was also a happy asset I suspect that the actual dirt-alone collection on brass wheels might be not significantly different than nickel silver. Brsss oxidation does not conduct electricity, while nickel/nickel oxide does conduct, the principal reasons for the hobby's mass move to the more forgiving nickel/nickel silver. I had similar problems with conductivity on my Mantua Pacific tender as well. The real problem was the poor conductivity via the Zamac trucks and frame. Wheels, assuming they are kept clean, just like any loco, collect juice nicely. 032 PC board with wipers and ran wires directly to the decoder. 032 deep slot in the truck gear covers and installed an. I then readĪn article online about putting wipers on some locos, so I proceeded to mill out an. I hesitated putting in a decoder after I switched to DCC, but went ahead and did it anyway. My switcher was brand new it worked quite well (on DC) then later on after a few years, it stalled a lot (on DC). Yes, the Hobbytown locos do seem to stall often. ![]() However, I found out that is not quite true. I have a few Hobbytown of Boston diesels with brass wheels and my friends have told me that the brass wheels get dirty quickly and do not conduct very well. ![]()
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